Introduction

Mondulkiri Province is an isolated forest area on Cambodia’s eastern border with Vietnam. The trip from Phnom Penh to Mondulkiri is long, and a great portion of it is on red dirt, pot-holed roads. The landscape between Kompong Cham and Vietnam is a feast of green rice-fields and dappled rubber-tree plantations. A road flanked by elephant grass winds through communities that prosperity has passed by. This is another Cambodia. Its scenery and climate are quite unlike the rest of the country. Here there are endless grassy hills and clumps of pines huddled together against the wind. At an elevation of 800m, it is chilly at night, so bring warm clothes. Almost half the 30,000 inhabitants are from the Pnong minority group with the Chunchiet people making up most of the remaining population.

Travel Information

Flights to Sen Monorom from Phnom Penh are once a week. The fare is US$50 one-way, and $100 return. Royal Air Camboge had two flights a week in the past, but now only fly once a week.

Road travel to Mondulkiri used to be a daunting experience, but it has become somewhat easier with the completion of a graded logging road from Chhlong (south of Kratie) to Sen Monorom.

Note: Logging has caused widespread environmental damage in Provinces like Mondulkiri and soil erosion and loss of habitats are fast becoming a cause for concern. Large tracts of virgin forest have already been sacrificed to lucrative logging rights and Cambodia has yet to address the possible long-term consequences of deforestation.

Boat and Road: It is possible to take the fast boat from Kratie as far as Chhlong (R25,000, 4½ hours) where the logging road begins. From Chhlong you catch a pick-up to Snuol; (R10,000 inside/R8000 outside, 1½ hours). Change pick-ups in Snuol for the journey to Sen Monorom (15,000 inside/R10,000 outside, 3-4 hours). If you are traveling in a group it may be possible to charter vehicles in Chhlong and Snuol.

Motorbike from Kratie: misses out the lamentable National Road 7. There is a trail to the south, following the banks of the Mekong River to Chhlong. You have to cross several rivers by boat and clear at least one hairpin bend. Getting to Chhlong can take 2 hours but once you hit the logging road you can pick up time and get to Sen Monorom, some 21km east, in as little as 5 hours.

Travelling Around

To get around the Province you can hire a moto for the day, or charter a Russian jeep. Motos with a driver cost the standard $5 - $10/day depending on the distance, and a jeep costs between US$35 and US$50/day, again depending on how far you want to go.The 37km road between Boo Sra and Sen Monorom is very bad. Most vehicles take about 2 hours to complete the journey, although trail bikes can do it a little quicker, but neither option is cheap. If you come on your own by motorcycle, be especially careful when crossing the river above the Boo Sra Waterfalls as the riverbed can be very slippery.

Tip

Visit the Tourist Information Office. The guide there speaks excellent French and reasonable English, and can help to organize a Pnong guide for trekking or wildlife viewing. There are a number of maps of the locations of some of the smaller communities around the province, and these can be invaluable if you are planning some backcountry travel.

Money and Banking

You will need to bring with you all the money you need. Banks are non-existent, and there is no exchange. A budget of at least $25/day should cover hotel bills, food and transport. Prices are much higher than in other provinces because everything has to be shipped in from Phnom Penh or Vietnam.

Communication

There are very limited communication facilities but mobile phones can now be used in some parts of Mondulkiri. Consider bringing one as this is an extremely remote area with very little in the way of health or emergency provision.

Things to See and Do

Elephant Treks
The village of Phulung, 7km north of Sen Monorom, is the place to arrange an elephant trek. The elephants are not kept in the village so it is necessary to arrive one day ahead of time in order to allow time for them to get the elephants ready. Costs quickly mount, as motos on the Province’s bad roads are expensive. The cost for a day of forest trekking is about US$30 or R120,000. The Phnong villagers will probably think you are mad, but the dramatic location of their community makes it a memorable experience. You pay a nominal sum to the village chief for the ride: R40,000 or US$10. This price gets even more reasonable when there are more of you.

Sihanouk Waterfall is a small waterfall, named in honor of King Sihanouk, and is located in the forest about 5km from town. It is possible to swim in the pool at the bottom of the falls.

Boo Sra Waterfall is in Pich Chinda District, 43km from the town. Boo Sra is the most beautiful waterfall in Mondulkiri, and is divided into three stages:

Sen Monorom Waterfall is located in Sen Monorom District, 5km from the town via a dirt road. The route is flanked on either side by industrial plantations of rubber, coffee and cashew. Sen Monorom waterfall also has three stages:

Chrey Thom Waterfall, located in Sen Monorom District, is 43km from the town. During the dry season, the waterfall is 15m high and 2m wide, and during the rainy season it is 11m high and 8m wide. The waterfall is surrounded by plantations of Sro Lou trees. The Provincial Tourist Office has designated this waterfall as a premier tourist site, rather than Boo Sra Falls where access is poor during the rainy season.

Sre Pok River is located in Koh Nhek District, 150km from the town. The sandy banks of the Sre Pok River are red and gold colored. The river has many small islands, and its banks form the venue for many of the district’s leisure activities.

Villages and Natural Resorts

Pou lung village: Located in Mumnea Commune, Sen Monorom District, 10km from Sen Monorom.

Pine Park & Green land: Nature and wildlife reserve 5km (10min.) from Sen Monorom on Route RN-76, Spean Meancheay Commune

Phnom Prich Sanctuary: Nature & wildlife reserve 75km (8h) from Sen Monorom, Kaev Seima District.

Phnom Nam Lear Sanctuary: Wildlife reserve 80km (4h) from Sen Monorom.

Mang Gold Mining Area: Nature & wildlife reserve 45km (3h) from Sen Monorom. O’Clor Village, Mémorng Commune, Keo Seyma District.

Where to Stay

Boo Sra Guesthouse - Rooms $5 - $15
Electricity often unavailable from 12.00pm - 4.00am.
Tel: 012-527144

Pecheda Guesthouse Single $6 - Dbl. $12
Overlooks lake. close to tourist office.

Pech Kiri Guesthouse and Restaurant
Bungalows $10 - Rooms $5. Meals are $4. Food is excellent and portions large. Drinks are $1.