Ratanakiri

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Introduction

Ratanakiri became a Cambodian Province in 1960, during the reign of King Norodom Sihanouk. The capital city, Banlung, is in the highlands on National Road No.19. The name Banlung actually refers to the District, while the town is known as Labansiek. The population is 94,243, and the land area is 11,052 square kilometers. It is on the northeastern plateau, 636km from Phnom Penh, and is bordered by Vietnam to the east, Lao PDR to the north, Steung Treng Province to the west, and Mondulkiri Province to the south. There are two rivers crossing the province: the Sre Pork and the Sre San. Ratanakiri is so sparsely populated that the provincial capital does not have an adequate market. In mineral wealth, Ratanakiri boast gold, gemstones, granite and onyx. Fertile red soil, water sources, wildlife, the weather and the scenery are some of its assets. The density of the forest varies from area to area, with near impenetrable forest in the north. There are drier, sparser forests in the southwest. Soil types range from rich volcanic earth in the hills to sandier soil near the rivers. With its beautiful landscape and still abundant wildlife, Ratanakiri Province offers wonderful opportunities for Eco-tourism.

Population

Ethnic Minorities

There are 8 different hill tribe ethnic groups:

1. Tumpoun 24.13 %
2. Kreung 18.89 %
3. Kavet 2.65 %
4. Kachok 2.65 %
5. Charay 19.47%
6. Prou 7.54%
7. Phnong 0.24%
8. Lun 0.20%

Total 75.77 %

* Remaining percent are ethnic Khmer. The ethnic or tribal people live in small, isolated villages in the hills and mountains.

They make their living through traditional cultivation and harvesting directly linked to the seasons. Hunting, fishing and collecting fruits also form part of their livelihood. These people survive because of their knowledge of the forest in which they live. This knowledge can seem unnatural to the visitor, yet it comes from years of understanding and respecting an environment in which most of us could not survive.

Travel Information

Air: Flights to Banlung from Phnom Penh leave several times a week, and most flights go via Mondulkiri or Stung Treng. President Airlines has three flights a week. The trip takes approximately one hour. Fares are $55 one-way, $100 roundtrip.

Bus / Car: You can take a bus from Phnom Penh to Kratie and stay overnight. Then continue by car to Ratanakiri the next morning. You can go directly to Ratanakiri by car, but you will arrive very late at night.

Boat: Boats run between Phnom Penh and Stung Treng (R60,000, 10 hours). The road between Stung Treng and Banlung is bad, but pick-ups make the journey in 7-9 hours, and cost R30,000 (inside), and R20,000 (outside).
There is no road linking Ratanakiri to Mondulkiri to the south. There is a road as far as Lumphat, but once you get across the Tonle Srepok, you are on a series of sandy ox-cart tracks until Koh Nhek, about 80km south in northern Mondulkiri Province.

Travelling Around
The popular modes of transport once you reach Banlung are cars, motorbikes, boats, and elephants. Transport costs are higher here than in other parts of the country. Motorbikes can be rented for about US$10 a day, or US$8 if you bargain. The Ratanakiri Restaurant sometimes hires out motorbikes for less than this. Renting a moto with a driver is advisable, as the driver will know the locale. You can sit back and enjoy the scenery. If you are in a group and want to explore the Province, a Russian jeep might be the answer. You can hire them from near the market. These sturdy vehicles carry about six people comfortably and cost from US$30 to US$50 a day, depending on where you want to go.

Suggested Itineraries

Day 1: Arrive at Ratanakiri airport and transfer to your hotel. See the city center then visit Phnom Eisey Patamak (reclining Buddha). Swim at Yeak Loam Lake, stopping overnight at the cultural center.

Day 2: Trip to Andoung Meas (Golden Wells) District and continue by boat to Taing Se Commune on the Sre San River. Visit the Charay hill tribe, and the nearby gem mines at Bar Kaev on the way back. Rubber and coffee plantations can be included. Return to Banlung overnight.

Day 3: Transfer to Lumphat District and swim in the Sre Pork River. Visit a Lao Village, a cashew farm and a coffee plantation at Ou’cheng, then to Kachanh and Katieng Waterfalls before returning to Banlung.

Day 4: Trip to Ou’Seanlair Waterfall and visit the gem mines. Visit Tumpuon village and return to Banlung overnight.

Day 5: Shop for handicrafts, then fly to Phnom Penh.

Money and Banking

There are no banks in Banlung, but you can change US dollars into Riel at the jewelers in the market. It is probably best to bring all the money you need with you, and a good amount of it in Riel.

Communication

The post office is on the road to Bokheo, and has international telephone connections, but no internet facilities.

Things to See and Do

Shopping

Shopping starts and ends at the Banlung market. Bargains can be found on intricate stone and wood carvings, gemstones and a wide variety of goods. Many items are brought by hill tribes: baskets, crossbows, gourds, bracelets, necklaces, clothes and pipes. The market makes for an interesting, and very colorful outing.

Yeak Loam Lake is situated 5km southeast of Banlung. It is a crater lake, and was formed by a volcanic eruption almost 4,000 years ago. It is considered the most beautiful lake in Ratanakiri. It is 50m deep during the dry season, and 800m in diameter with a 2.5km path around the lake. Along the track is a quaint wooden building housing tribal handicrafts. Boeung Yak Loam has picturesque, mountainous scenery and a charming bird sanctuary, and it provides the visitor with an opportunity to experience the daily life of local hill-tribes.

Eisey Patamak-Mountain Reclining Buddha
At the top of Phnom Svay is a statue of a reclining Buddha. Awesome and peaceful, it has lain undisturbed throughout the years. Cast your eyes outwards to glimpse Laos to the north, Vietnam to the east, and enjoy the spellbinding serenity of the surrounding countryside.

Veal Rum Plain (stone field) is 14km north of Banlung. A dense cover of stones cover the surface.

Virachay National Park is 45km north of Banlung, and has a total land area of 332,500 hectares. It has many varieties of plants and trees in the forests, and many different species of animals and birds.

Lumphat Wildlife Sanctuary has 250,000 hectares, and is 37km south of Banlung. It has many unique animals and birds such as tigers, elephants and redheaded vultures.

Ou’Chaloy is located on the Sre Pok River, and is 34km southwest of Banlung. Note: this is a dry season resort.

Norng Kabat Forest is 23km north of Banlung. There is a pond, and visitors can see animals and birds that come to drink. In addition, tourists can visit ethnic villages and experience various aspects of tribal culture such as traditional
religious beliefs, festivals, dancing and music.

Bokheo (Andong Pech) is a gem-mining town. It is not too interesting, but you can go and have a look at the mines. You can also purchase cheap stones in and around the town, although you are being offered leftovers after the quality stones have been sold. Remember that if you buy an uncut stone for next to nothing, it may end up costing quite a lot to have it cut. Bokheo is 28km east of Banlung on the road to Vietnam.

Waterfalls

Kachang Waterfall is situated 6km northwest of Banlung. It is on the Kontung Stream that flows into the Sre Pork River. The height is 12m, and the falls flow throughout the year. Visitors can bathe, and take in the magnificent landscape swathed in mist that surrounds the waterfall. You can view other nearby natural sights on foot or by elephant.

Katieng Waterfall is 7km northwest of Banlung, and is also on the Koutung Stream. The height is 10m, and the falls flow throughout the year. This is a serene landscape replete with birds and wildlife.

Ou’Sensranoh Waterfall is situated 9km south of Banlung, and is 18m high. Visitors can rest and enjoy the fresh air, or enjoy the forest and listen to the birds.

Cha Ung Waterfall is 8km west of Banlung. The source is water flowing from Eisey Patamak Mountain and Svay Mountain. Below this waterfall is a big hole. Visitors can stand or sit behind the waterfall and inhale the cool fresh air.

Nightlife

On the road beyond the market are a couple of nightclubs that stay open until customers leave. They have the appearance of barns but the atmosphere is livelier than other provincial nightclubs, and the lighting means you can
actually see what is going on. Some of the moto drivers like drinking in these places at night so take care if you are using them to get home. Remember you are a very long way from medical care!