• Introduction
• Getting to the Temples
• Itineraries and Recommendations
• Glossary
• The Temples

Temple Guide: Priority Temples

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is not simply a temple; it is the symbol at the very heart of the Khmer people’s pride in their culture and heritage. Three of its five central towers adorn the national flag and the temple and its contents are reproduced in countless modern works of art and handicraft. The temple is regarded by many as the single, finest aesthetic achievement in the history of mankind. It remains one of the largest, extant religious buildings in the world and should be at the top of any tour itinerary.

”Angkor Wat’ means capital or royal monastery city and the name is probably derived from the Sanskrit word ‘nagara’, meaning capital city. It served as a temple, mausoleum and probably a palace to Suryavarman II, who reigned from 1113-1150 A.D. Suryavarman II dedicated Angkor Wat to the Hindu god Vishnu. Angkor Wat faces west and the entire site is encompassed by a moat 1.5km (from east to west) by 1.3km (from north to south). The moat is crossed by a single causeway on the western side. Crossing this, the visitor comes to the outer enclosure: a gallery running the entire length of the western boundary and pierced by five entrances [three raised entrances near the causeway and two ground-level entrances at either end that were probably for animals]. Once through the central entrance, the approach to Angkor Wat opens in all its glory.

The visitor is greeted by a second, raised causeway that leads the eye directly towards the main temple. Regular flights of steps along the causeway lead to ground level. The open areas either side of the causeway probably contained houses. Around the half-way point the causeway is flanked by two libraries, beyond which stand the northern and southern reflecting pools. The northern reflecting pool [left of the causeway] provides the best photographic opportunities, particularly at sunset.

A series of steps at the end of the causeway lead up to the three stories of the main temple. Each story rises higher than the other and is bounded by a gallery. The outer galleries on the first level contain the jaw-dropping bas-reliefs for which Angkor Wat is famed. Use a specialist textbook or tour guide to explain the full content of the bas-reliefs. A brief summary is given below.

The Bas-Reliefs

Hindu temples are traditionally viewed to the perceiver’s right, so begin with the northern wing of the western gallery [turn left where the causeway enters the first level]. This depicts scenes from the Ramayana, principally the Battle of Lanka. Turn right into the northern gallery.

The western section of the northern gallery shows gods and demons in conflict, and the eastern section shows Krishna’s defeat of the demon Bana. The second section post-dates the construction of Angkor Wat and was commissioned by King Ang Chan I who reigned from 1515-1566. Turn right into the eastern gallery.

Further bas-reliefs in the northern wing, also sculpted during the reign of Ang Chan I, show Vishnu conquering demons. In the southern wing of the eastern gallery stands the incomparable Churning of the Ocean of Milk. This bas-relief dates from the original construction and shows scenes from the Hindu epic the Mahabharata. Gods [devas] and their opposites [danavas] are advised by Vishnu to cooperate in order to obtain the elixir of life from the seabed of the Ocean of Milk. The scene is redolent with the subtleties and complexities of the Hindu faith. Themes of universal balance, negativity, temptation and spiritual maturity are all contained in this extraordinary work of Khmer art. Turn right into the southern gallery.

The eastern section of the southern gallery depicts the grisly retribution taken on the unrighteous by Yama, god of Hell. Yama wears the face of Suryavarman II. Suryavarman II is also seen rewarding the righteous. The western section of the southern gallery shows Suryavarman II amid with his troops and servants. Turn right into the western gallery.

The southern section of the western gallery leads back to the main entrance and its bas-reliefs show the climactic Battle of Kurukshetra from the Mahabharata.

The First Level

In addition to the bas-relief galleries on the first level there is a covered cloister, divided into four quarters, that separates the first and second levels. The cloister contains ritual bathing areas. There are also two libraries on this level, positioned symmetrically to the north and south of the cloisters. At the eastern end of the covered cloister, three enclosed passageways lead from the first level to the second level via three sets of parallel stairs. Architecturally, this is one of the most fascinating areas of Angkor Wat.

The Second Level

The main entrance to the second level is via the three staircases on the western side. However, there are also entrance points in the mid-sections of the other three sides. Each entrance has its own pavilion. As with the first level there is a gallery encompassing the whole of the second level. Two small libraries stand in the courtyard between the galleries of the second level and the five soaring prasats [towers] of the third and final level.

The Third Level

The layout of the third level mirrors the quarters of the covered cloister on the first level. Twelve flights of steep steps lead up to the covered galleries of the third level. The distinctively-shaped prasats that give Angkor Wat its famous profile stand at the four corners of the third level, with the fifth and tallest prasat at their centre. The fifth prasat at the heart of the Sanctuary is thought to have contained a likeness of Vishnu. The configuration of the five towers [picture the five spots on a die] is known as a quincunx. It has enormous spiritual and numerological significance and can be found in many designs in Khmer architecture.

Only the king and high priest were allowed to ascend the third level, which symbolically reproduced the dwelling place of the Hindu gods, Mt. Meru. For the common populace the message was literally carved in stone: Suryavarman II was a god-king [devaraja], continuing the line of Cambodian rulers that stretched all the way back to Jayavarman II.

Angkor Wat after Jayavarman II

One of the most significant events affecting Angkor Wat was the conversion to Buddhism of Jayavarman VII [1181-1220 A.D.]. Angkor Wat became a Buddhist temple and many of its references to the Hindu faith were removed. However, its change in religious use almost certainly saved it from abandonment. The city was sacked by the Thais in 1431 and never recovered its earlier power or glory. King Ang Chan I eventually moved the capital to Lonvek, north of modern-day Phnom Penh, but Angkor Wat continued to be used as a Buddhist temple. A handful of western adventurers and missionaries visited the site during Cambodia’s ‘Dark Age’ and brought back reports of the extraordinary lost city in the jungles of Southeast Asia. European interest in Angkor was rekindled in the 1920s by the travel journals of the French explorer Henri Mouhot. It now ranks as one of the world’s premier tourist sites.

Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom, literally “big Angkor”, is the walled royal city built at the end of the 12th century during the reign of King Jayavarman VII. Construction began shortly after Angkor had been regained from the Chams by Jayavarman VII. The city was built as a quadrangle and bordered by a 100m-wide moat and an 8m high wall. The walls of Angkor Thom are oriented to the compass points with four magnificent gates in the centre of each wall and a fifth Victory Gate in the east wall, used as the palace entrance. There are many temples within the city’s confines including The Bayon, Baphuon and Phimeanakas. Angkor Thom truly is a city befitting a god-king.

The Elephant and Leper King Terraces

The Elephant Terrace and Terrace of the Leper King are situated in the heart of the Angkor Thom. They were the long platform on which the Royal Palace [no longer extant] was built. From this magnificent viewpoint the Angkorian kings watched military exercises and celebrations. Royal guests were also greeted at the terraces. The Elephant Terrace, is located at the southern end [nearest to the Bayon]. The Leper King Terrace contains several pristine carvings of Garuda as well as Devatas and nagas.

The Bayon

The Bayon is perhaps the most enigmatic of the temples built during the reign of Jayavarman VII. It vies with Angkor Wat as the favorite monument among visitors. The Bayon post-dated Angkor Wat by about 100 years but it appears to have been built on the site of an earlier temple. The Bayon itself underwent a series of changes before evolving into its present form. What transfixes visitors are the vast stone heads which gaze from all directions, yet The Bayon also boasts bas-reliefs to rival those of Angkor Wat.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm is only rivaled by Beng Melea in terms of recreating the experience of the early explorers who re-discovered Angkor. Its structure is being steadily subsumed by trees, making it very photogenic. Ta Promh is in better condition than Beng Melea, has superior carvings and is far easier to visit. In its prime, Ta Promh boasted a fabulous wealth of precious stones and gold and controlled the activities of thousands of villages. It was constructed early in Jayavarman VII’s extravagant building programme and was dedicated to his mother. Clearance work has been thoughtfully undertaken at the temple so as not to harm Ta Promh’s mystical ambience. Visitor’s limited by time should make every effort to see Ta Promh.

Banteay Srey

Banteay Srey [citadel of the woman] is located about 25km from Angkor Wat and should be a priority in any temple itinerary. The road to Banteay Srey passes though wonderful scenery, making the journey a pleasure in itself. This exquisite temple was built by Yajnavaraha, an official of Rajendravarman (944-968) and Brahman guru of Jayavarman V (968-1000). Yajnavaraha was also the grandson of Harshavarman I.

As if to make up for its diminutive size (the first enclosure is a mere 80′ square) every inch of Banteay Srey is covered in carvings of the very finest detail and artistry. Banteay Srey, built in the 10th century, is fashioned from pink sandstone instead of the normal grey laterite of other temples. The properties of this stone allowed the ancient masons to imbue their work with an unworldly level of sharpness and detail.

Banteay Srey’s location means that almost all moto and tuk-tuk drivers charge more for this trip to cover their additional fuel and maintenance costs. If you decide to visit Banteay Srey you might consider combining the trip with a visit to Kbal Spean or the recently relocated Mine Museum, both of which are accessible from Banteay Srey.

Temple Guide: Recommended Temples

The Roluos Group

Roluos is the site of the ancient center of the Khmer civilization known as Hariharilaya. Almost 50 years after Jayavarman II first established the independent kingdom of Kambuja on Mount Kulen in 802 A.D., his capital moved to Hariharalaya.

Jayavarman II died at Roluos in about 850 A.D. but it is likely his successors remained there until Yasovarman I moved the capital to Yasodharapura (Angkor) in around 905 A.D. Phnom Bakheng was the first temple built at Angkor and was Yasovarman’s state temple. The Roluos group dates from the late 9th century and is the earliest site of the 600-year Angkorian Period that is open to visitors. The three temples in this important group, Bakong, Lolei and Pre Ko, have similar architectural characteristics, decoration and construction methods. They are well worth visiting to gauge the advances in classical Khmer art and to put Khmer later monuments in their proper context.

Prasat Bakong

The Bakong is the principal temple in the Roluos Group, a collection of temples 13km east of Siem Reap that formed Harihiralaya, one of the early capitals of the Khmer Empire. The Bakong was constructed in around 881, during the reign of Indavaraman I, and provides a good example of early Khmer temple design and decoration.

Prasat Lolei

Lolei was built by Indravarman’s son, Yasovarman I (889-915) on an island in the middle of a now dried-up Baray. Originally intended as a 6-tower (3×2) plan like Phrah Ko, only four towers were built.

Prasat Preah Ko

Preah Ko was the first temple built by Indravarman I at Harihiralaya. It was dedicated in 880. The front three towers are dedicated to Indravarman’s predecessors and the rear three towers to the respective queens of these rulers.

Phnom Bakheng

Phnom Bakheng is located 1,300m north of Angkor Wat and 400m south of Angkor Thom. The long, steep path up to Bakeng is currently closed and a diversion around the side of the hill is in place. Bakeng was the first significant temple at Angkor and was built after Yasovarman I moved the state capital from Roluos to Yasodharapura. The hill overlooks the West Baray. Most tourists are taken to Bakheng to view the sunset at some point in their stay. Unfortunately, the hill is becoming so crowded in the late afternoon that it is often difficult to find a good vantage point.

Prasat Phnom Krom

Prasat Phnom Krom is approximately 12km southwest of Siem Reap, near the north end of the Tonle Sap. Climb the steep stairs and curved path through a working pagoda at the top of the hill. The walk affords a fine view of the lake and surrounding area. It dates from the end of the 9th century and the beginning of the 10th century and is dedicated to the Hindu Trinity: Shiva, Visnu and Brahma.

Prasat Kravan

The small tower at Kravan has three sanctuaries with unique brick bas-reliefs. Carvings on the southern wall represent Visnu with his right foot resting on a lotus flower held by his wife Laksmi, the Goddess of Beauty born from the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. The western and eastern walls see Vishnu riding a crocodile and the Garuda respectively.

Ta Keo

Ta Keo is east of Thommanon and Chau Say Tevoda and dominates a bend in the road. Visitors may enter from the south or east. Ascend this temple with care as its stairs are steep and narrow. Ta Keo was built circa the end of the 10th century by King Jayavarman V and was his state temple. It is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Ta Keo was the first temple built entirely in sandstone and as such serves as a milestone in Khmer history. An unusual aspect of this temple is that it remains unfinished. Had it been, Ta Keo would undoubtedly have been one of the finest temples at Angkor.

Phimeanakas

This 10th Century pyramidal temple pre-dated the construction of Angkor Thom but was encompassed within its walls when Angkor Thom was completed. Phimeanakas was a royal temple. Architecturally there is little to recommend it but its great height provides a panorama of the surrounding woodland. Ascend the temple via its western (rear) staircase as the eastern stair is precipitous. A legendary serpent-woman was reputed to dwell in the temple tower. The Angkorian rulers were obliged to carnally pleasure the creature on a nightly basis. This ritual supposedly protected the king and his realm from harm.

Prasat Baphuon

Like Phimeanakas, Prasat Baphuon pre-dated Angkor Thom but was encompassed by the city walls. It is a vast temple-mountain and is located close to the centre of Angkor Thom. Its poor state is currently being rectified through an extensive restoration project and the temple is not open to the public at present. It is possible, however, to access the entrance gate and elevated walkway. Some fabulous animal carvings adorn the walkway entrance and there is a huge reclining Buddha on the west side, added to The Baphuon at a much later date.

Preah Khan

Preah Khan, meaning ‘Sacred Sword’ is a huge monastic complex with an array of interesting artistic and architectural features. Originally it was a Buddhist monastery school, engaging over 1000 monks. It was also the residence of king Jayavarman VII during the construction of his permanent home in Angkor Thom. In harmony with Ta Prohm, which was dedicated to Jayavarman VII’s mother, Preah khan was dedicated to his father.

There are several features of note. Vandalised Buddha images bear witness to the later Hindu resurgence in Cambodia. Also note the cylindrical columns on the building west of the main temple and the innumerable linga stands throughout the temple. Areas of the temple look similar to Ta Prohm and have tree roots and creepers growing in them. This is a magnificent temple that is well worth including in your itinerary.

The Royal Pond

The 10th Century Royal Pond is 45m by 125m with sandstone rims and steps circling downwards. It stands in the area between the Baphuon and the old Royal Palace. The pond has well-preserved carvings on its wall. Though the pond itself is not particularly interesting the area has a peaceful ambience and is a nice place to sit and reflect, particularly in the late afternoon.

Prasat Neak Pean

Although Neak Pean is only a small temple with a collection of five ponds it is worth seeing for its unique features. It is believed to have been built to celebrate Buddha achieving Enlightenment. The central pond is a replica of Lake Anavatapta in the Himalayas, situated at the top of the universe. The lake gives birth to the four great rivers of the earth. These rivers are represented at Neak Pean by sculpted gargoyles corresponding to the four cardinal points. Lake Anavatapta was fed by hot springs and venerated in India for the healing powers of its waters. The orientation of the ponds at Neak Pean ensured that the water was always fresh because the ponds receive only reflected light. Neak Pean is a 70m-square man-made pond, bordered by steps and surrounded by four smaller ponds. A small circular island with a stepped base of seven laterite tiers is in the center of the large square pond. This temple is best seen during the Rainy Season when the ponds are full.

Banteay Samre

Banteay Samre is one of the most complete complexes at Angkor and was restored using the archaeological method known as anastylosis. This method entails complete deconstruction of the building, numbering of its component parts and then painstaking reconstruction.

The name Samre refers to an ethnic group of mountain people who inhabited the region near the feet of the Phnom Kulen hills. No inscription has been found for this temple but its style places it in the central period of classical architecture close to the building of Angkor Wat. A unique feature is the interior moat with its laterite paving which, when filled with water, must have given an ethereal atmosphere to the temple. Other buildings around the moat are raised on moldings and are decorated with figures framed by lotus buds. There are some fine naga carvings and the central tower contains a linga stand.

Banteay Samre can be combined with a trip to Banteay Srey and the recently relocated Mine Museum.

Thommanon

Thommanon is a gem of a temple and was built near the end of Suryavarman II’s reign. This period is regarded as the golden age of Khmer architecture and Thommanon represents Khmer temple design at its most exquisite. Its architects and artisans took full advantage of the natural qualities of sandstone and as a result its carvings are of the highest quality. It has a magnificent jungle backdrop and looks best at sunset.

Other Temples within the Heritage Site

This section of the Ancient Angkor Guidebook is aimed at helping you choose which temples to visit. For most tourists, visiting all the temples is impractical. However, for information purposes the locations of most of the other temples are shown on the Temple Guide Map and included in the following list:

Temple ______________ Ruler_________________Religion

Prasat Preah Ko__________Indravaraman I__________Hindu
Prasat Ak Yum___________ruler unknown___________Hindu
Prasat Bei ______________ Yasovarman I __________ Hindu
Prasat Phnom Bok ________ Yasovarman I __________ Hindu
Tep Pranam_____________ Yasovarman I __________ Hindu
Thma Bay Kaek___________Yasovarman I___________Hindu
Baksei Chamkrong_________Harshavarman I_________Hindu
East Mebon______________Harshavarman I_________Hindu
Prasat Bat Chum__________Rajendravarman_________Buddhist
Prasat Pre Rup___________Rajendravarman_________Buddhist
Kleangs________________Jayavarman V___________Hindu
West Mebon_____________Udayadityavarman_______Hindu
Chau Say Tevoda_________Suryavarman II__________Hindu
Prasat Wat Athvea________Suryavarman II__________Hindu
Prasat Top [west]_________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Prasat Prei______________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Banteay Kdei____________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Preah Paliley____________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Prasat Banteay Prei_______Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Prasat Krol Ko___________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Prasat Ta Som___________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Preah Pithu_____________Jayavarman VII__________Buddhist
Sra Srang______________Jayavarman VII___________Buddhist
Chapel Hospitals_________Jayavarman VII___________Buddhist
PrasatTa Nei____________Jayavarman VII___________Buddhist
Suor Prasat Towers_______Jayavarman VII___________ Buddhist
Ta Prohm Kel___________Jayavarman VII___________Buddhist
Spean Thma____________unknown
Prasat Top [east]_________Jayavarman VIII__________Hindu

Temple Guide: Going Further Afield

Phnom Kulen National Park

Phnom Kulen is widely regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Khmer Empire. This fascinating area is now a National Park boasting the spectacular Phnom Kulen Falls; the River of 1000 Lingas and the hilltop monastery of Wat Preah Ang Thom.

Phnom Kulen Waterfall is a popular bathing and picnic site for locals and is extremely busy during national holidays and religious festivals. Access to the site has been considerably improved in recent years. Visit the falls during the rainy season to experience their full glory.

Unfortunately, the River of 1000 Lingas is best viewed in the dry season when all of the riverbed carvings are visible. These include some of the earliest known linga stands, images of Vishnu and various Apsara dancers.

Wat Preah Ang Thom is located close to the Phnom Kulen Falls and is home to one of the largest and oldest statues of the Buddha in Cambodia. The concrete stairway leading to the principal shrine affords good views of the surrounding jungle. There are souvenir stalls and refreshment stands at the entrance to the Wat and each of the three sites has its own parking area.

Getting There

The National Park’s remote location and high entrance fee mean that comparatively few tourists visit the National Park. Buy tickets at the entrance to the National Park, not at the main ticket booth for Angkor Wat. Entry costs $20 for foreigners and the ticket can only be used to view the National Park. It is not valid for the other Angkorian temples. It is possible to get to Phnom Kulen by moto, assuming you can find a willing driver. However, consider hiring a taxi [$20-30 per day] or a 12-seater minibus [$50-60 per day], especially in the rainy season.

Prasat Koh Ker

Koh Ker 130km north-east of Siem Reap and was the site of the capital established by Jayavarman IV. The main ruins at Koh Ker consist of a 7-tier step-pyramid accessed via a vertiginous ladder and narrow, sloping steps. Koh Ker receives very few visitors on account of its remoteness and the awful condition of the local roads. It is significantly easier to get to in the dry season. There is a small restaurant at the site but little else in the way of facilities.

Tickets to Koh Ker cost $10 and do not include the cost of transport. Head east out of Siem Reap on National Road No.6 and look for the signs to Koh Ker near the town of Dom Dek.

Kbal Spean

Kbal Spean is known as the Valley of a 1000 Lingas and is set deep in the jungle 12km from Banteay Srey. A 45 minute walk takes you to the river and waterfall where innumerable stone phalluses are carved on the riverbed. These fertility symbols were designed to bless the waters.

Kbal Spean is well-maintained and the way-marked trail is easy to follow. Though the path is steep, with steps in some places, the waterfall near the top is a nice place to relax and cool down. Entry to Kbal Spean is included in the tickets to Angkor Wat. Allow at least half a day to visit the site and perhaps use the remaining time to visit Banteay Srey or the Mine Museum.

Beng Melea

For many visitors, Beng Melea even beats Ta Promh for ambience. Its remote location keeps tourist numbers down and package tours have thankfully avoided it. Consequently you can appreciate its tumbled, dryad beauty in considerably more peace than most of the other temples. A local guide can lead you over walls and into subterranean passageways and chambers. For any would-be Indiana Joneses Beng Melea is a must.

One-off entry now costs an excessive $25. However, a 1-day [$20] or 3-day [$40] pass to Angkor Wat allows you entry to Beng Melea if you pay an additional $5 road tax at a checkpoint en route.

Sambor Prei Kuk

The pre-Angkorian ruins at Sambor Prei Kuk have their own section in the Local Guide to Kompong Thom.

Banteay Chmar

This temple is located 61km from the town of Sisophon and to the north-west of Angkor. It is believed to have been one of the early settlements established by Jayavarman II and was later rebuilt during the reign of Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his son, who was killed in battle.

This temple is just accessible from Siem Reap but is best approached from Sisophon. There are a handful of hotels and guesthouses in the town, which is generally used as a pit-stop by buses running to and from Poipet.

Preah Vihear

The magnificent hill-top temple of Preah Vihear has its own entry in the Local Guides section of this website.